The Old City of Riga has a collection of small squares, each worthy a visit in its own right.
One of, if not, the oldest of these squares is the cobbled Town Hall Square (Rātslaukums). This has been the administrative/local government centre of the city since it was founded in 1201. Since then markets, festivals and all manner of events have occupied or taken place in this square. For those into it, this used to be the place to go for an afternoon’s merriment at a public execution or two.
On a rather less macabre note, in 1510 the world’s first decorated Christmas tree was erected in the square by members of the Brotherhood of Blackheads, one of the many trade and craft guilds in the city at that time. The Blackheads later, in 1713, bought what was then called the New House and enhanced it into what became the colourful and ornate House of Blackheads, a faithful reproduction of which dominates the square today.
In referring to a faithful reproduction, I should add that all the buildings and statuary in the square are reproductions or new post WWII additions. The whole square was destroyed by German air-raids in 1941 or razed to the ground by the post-war Soviet occupiers.
Today, the buildings in the square are a bit of a mixed bag, in so far as ease on the eye is concerned.
The beautiful House of Blackheads and the Town Hall were reconstructed in 1999 and 2003 respectively; post Latvia’s independence in 1991. The refined statue of Roland, a Frankish military leader and nephew of Charlemagne, again a reproduction, was added to the centre of the square in 2003 replacing the war damaged 1896 original which can now be seen in St Peter’s Church.
While not lacking a certain charm, the downright ugly building on the south-western side of the square, to the right of the House of Blackheads, is a Soviet addition of 1970. It was, in Soviet times, the Museum of Red Latvian Riflemen and complemented the attention-grabbing brutalist Latvian Riflemen Monument, to the rear of the building. Today this building houses the extremely thought-provoking and not to be missed Museum of Occupation of Latvia (1940-1991).
Across the way from the museum is another very drab Soviet looking building – Riga Technical University.
Unlike some of the other squares in the Old City, Town Hall Square has a rather limited range of cafes and restaurants but what it perhaps lacks in this area (and there are plenty of these within a short walk of the square) it makes up for in items of historical interest, dating from the city’s foundation to the present day.
In addition to everything else, the square is also a good spot for people watching. When I visited I was able to do this while relaxing to the sound of a very talented musician playing her Latvian kokle.
Most of the buildings and sights referred to above are the subject of upcoming entries.
This blog entry is one of a group (loop) of entries on the Old City area of Riga. I suggest you continue with my next entry – House of Blackheads – or to start the loop at the beginning go to my first entry – SamaraH Hotel Metropole – Riga.
The Rambling Wombat 