Reunification Murals

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Just prior to entering the Demilitarised Zone (DMZ) we entered what I would describe as a sort of compound area. Here we were asked to get of the bus and attend a briefing session prior to continuing on into the DMZ. At this point the bus was searched (I imagine for stowaways) and our local guides and the driver surrendered their identity documents to the military. Continue reading “Reunification Murals”

Dining al fresco en route to the DMZ

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Tea by the Highway

The majority of our trips outside Pyongyang involved travel of less than a couple of hours. There were a few exceptions and apart from the trip between Pyongyang and Kaesong/Demilitarised Zone (DMZ) we were exhorted to ensure we had taken care of ablutions and other needs we might have as the bus would not be stopping en-route. Continue reading “Dining al fresco en route to the DMZ”

The Reunification Highway

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Time to contemplate or speculate.

Getting to Panmunjom, the Demilitarised Zone (DMZ) and the border with South Korea requires a 175 kilometre trip from Pyongyang along the Reunification Highway (also called the Pyongyang-Kaesong Motorway). While the highway continues on a further 70 kilometres to Seoul it is closed at the border and a through journey in either direction is not possible. Continue reading “The Reunification Highway”

Koryo Museum

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This large complex of buildings (currently nearly 20) originally dates from 992 when the site housed the Taemyon Palace which later became an imperial guest-house and then the Bureau for Confucian Doctrines. In 1089 it became ‘the Kakjagam’ or highest centre of learning in Kaesong for those seeking to enter the civil service. Children of the aristocracy attended this centre of Confucian learning throughout the Koryo period and the subsequent Ri period which ended in the late 19th century. Continue reading “Koryo Museum”

Tomb of King Kongmin

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Although North Korea is an ancient country with roots going back 4000 years tourists have very little opportunity to see or hear about anything pre-dating the Japanese occupation of the country in the late 19th century. Visits to North Korea focus on the iconography of the modern age, monuments and museums perpetuating the cult of personality of the Kim Dynasty which only dates from 1945, with the ending of the Japanese occupation of the peninsula.

There were a small number of exceptions to this ‘Kim Dynasty focus’ on our trip and one was a visit to the Tomb of King Kongmin (more formally the Hyonjongrung Royal Tomb) about 13kms outside Kaesong. Continue reading “Tomb of King Kongmin”

Kaesong Folk Custom Hotel: ‘Royal Pansanggi Banquet’

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Pansanggai Banquet

Having been a royal capital for over 500 years, Kaesong has a highly developed cuisine with a presentation style fit for royalty.

Our meal at the Kaesonng Folk Custom Hotel was a traditional Royal Pansanggi banquet consisting of numerous dishes each presented in a small metal bowl. While my first picture shows 11 dishes per person, additional dishes provided during the meal brought the number to over 13, the number traditionally served to royalty. Continue reading “Kaesong Folk Custom Hotel: ‘Royal Pansanggi Banquet’”