Pyongyang’s White Elephant

For a country that can build buildings in a day or two (for example, the Armistise Signing Hall in Panmunjom) the 330 metre high, 105 story Ryugyong Hotel ( Ryugyong – ‘capital of willows’– a former name for Pyongyang) is a major embarrassment to North Korea. In fact the unfinished hotel is, without doubt, North Korea’s number one embarrassment as, given its size and downtown Pyongyang location, it cannot be hidden or ignored (not even by our guides who could otherwise happily tell you, straight faced and without the blink of an eyelid that black was white). That said, there have been periods during its 27 (and counting) years construction phase where it has been photo-shopped out of postcards and other official publications.

Construction of the pyramid shaped hotel, so different than anything else in Pyongyang and indeed the country, commenced in 1987 and continues to this day. It was to have been completed in 1989 and had it been, it would have been the world’s tallest hotel at the time. It was specifically designed as a Cold War response to the Westin Stamford in Singapore, then the worlds tallest hotel, built by a South Korean Company.

The initial phase of construction stopped in 1992 with the collapse of the Soviet Union and the economic ramifications of that on North Korea. Little happened again until 2008 when work recommenced. In 2011 the exterior of the building was confirmed complete. Alas, it lacked much inside the glass shell and despite numerous scheduled opening dates it remains unopened. Few westerners have been permitted inside though this rare privilege was granted to staff of the Kroyo Tours in 2012. Suffice to say work remains to be done and many western commentators doubt if it can ever be completed due to serious construction faults. One to keep an eye on, I guess.

Because everything is bigger and better in North Korea designers didn’t just settle for that “must have of the day” – a revolving restaurant. The Ryugyong Hotel was designed to incorporate eight revolving floors and five revolving restaurants. Reports in 2012 suggest only one revolving restaurant and no mention is made of revolving floors. Depending on who you believe, the hotel will have between one thousand five hundred and eight thousand rooms.

While we passed the unfinished hotel countless times on our trip only once, in passing, did our guide refer to it and, notwithstanding its history, the reference was to the wonderful new hotel which, thanks to the efforts of industrious workers and soldiers, was due for completion in 2016 and, as it was a construction site, we would not be visiting it. Our guide forgot to mention when construction had started or that ‘the speed of Chollima‘ seems to have eluded the workers on this occasion.

Note: The hotel remains unfinished as at 31 January 2017.

For obvious reasons the Ryugyong Hotel in something to look at in Pyongyang rather than a places to stay!

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This blog entry is one of a group (loop) of entries on The Rambling Wombat’s trip to Pyongyang, North Korea which I recommend you read in a particular order.  I suggest you continue with my next entry – “Let them Eat Pizza”. If necessary, go to my Pyongyang introduction entry –  Pyongyang – A Capital City Unlike any Other – to start this loop at the beginning.

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