On the early evening of the Greater Leader’s 102nd birthday our group was in the Pyongyang Gold Lane Bowling alley. While most of the group were enjoying a game of bowls, some were having a drink and I was engaged in a deep and meaningful political discussion with our main guide. After bowls our (ok, not ours but rather the guides’) plan was to return to the hotel for dinner – it had been a long day.
At the bowling alley I noted one of the other guides on the phone, he had been on and off it quite a few times. Having completed this last call he seemed rather excited and demanded that the bowls, drinks and discussions cease immediately and we get on the bus as quickly as possible. We had been given permission by higher authorities to join locals in Kim Il-sung Square for Kim Il-sung’s 102nd birthday fireworks display. While the Great Leader died in 1994 he remains the Eternal President. We needed to get there quickly before the roads were closed and the firework display started.
We sped through town making it in time. When we arrived the square was almost full. I am guessing that 50,000 plus had turned out (in the square alone) for the fireworks which would be fired from the Taedong River and the Juche Tower area. The Kim Il-sung Square was a perfect vantage point.
Moving towards the square from where we parked the bus, I noticed that the two Kim’s pictures were lit up (as were all the buildings) but the grandstand around them was in the dark. Squinting my eyes I though it had been filled with pots of rather dull looking flowers. On moving into our place about 20 metres from the grandstand I realised the flowerpots were individual soldiers. The army had turned out en mass to watch the fireworks – seated while everyone else had to stand. As it was dark and crowded, naughty and disrespectful tourists as we were, we started taking photos of the flower display. We were soon advised that this indulgence should cease!
The general atmosphere within the square was festive and unlike our visit to the Kim Il-sung Stadium a few days earlier for the marathon and soccer matches people seemed to be here as families and friends as opposed to being here in their work groups. We could have been anywhere really.
The fireworks display started on time at 8pm, lasted for about 15 minutes and was accompanied by suitable revolutionary music including, unsurprisingly, the “Song of General Kim Il-sung,”. The display was of an unexpected high standard and the army gently clapped for the whole 15 minutes – most peculiar.
In 2012 on the Great Leader’s 100th birthday, North Korea unsuccessfully launched a rocket. No rockets in sight in 2014.
When the fireworks display finished, the square’s lights – having been dimmed for the display – came on again and everyone, including us, left in a most orderly and disciplined manner. There wasn’t as much as a single sweet/candy paper dropped on the square.
Most tours into North Korea are timed around some celebration or event so if you are not in North Korea for the Great Leader’s birthday celebrations you will be there for some other mementos occasion.
This blog entry is one of a group (loop) of entries on my trip to Pyongyang. I suggest you continue with my next entry – Pyongyang’s Old Gates – or to start the loop at the beginning go to – Pyongyang – A Capital City Unlike any Other
The Rambling Wombat 
Great that you were able to go to this, and very good firework photos too!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Yes, a great opportunity. Thank you
LikeLike