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Ever since my first (and indeed only) visit to the former Soviet Union about 30 years ago I have had a fascination and liking for the brutalist style monuments and sculptures found there and in other countries of generally socialist leaning. Sadly – with one significant exception, that being North Korea – this style of art is no longer produced, and that which was produced is often decaying, has been moved to monument graveyards or has be deliberately destroyed because of the political nature there-of. My liking for the art form is purely related to its grand and bold scale, its gravitas as it were, rather than the brash and perfunctory political statements it so often makes.

While many former Soviet symbols and relics in Riga have be removed or let decay there still remains quite a bit, especially for those who make the effort to seek it out.

One piece that you don’t have to seek out is the formidable Latvian Riflemen Monument at the south-western end of the Old City, just off Town Hall Square.

The Latvian Riflemen, eventually comprising eight regiments, were formed in 1915 as part of the Russian Imperial Army and played a significant role, and suffered heavily, in Russia’s fight against the Germans in World War I.

In 1917 the majority of the Riflemen transferred their allegiances to the Bolsheviks and became known as the Red Latvian Riflemen. The Red Riflemen were very active and loyal participants in the Russian Civil War (1917-22) and indeed a number of the Riflemen were selected for duty within Lenin’s personal bodyguard.

The Red Riflemen were also supporters of the establishment of Soviet rule in Latvia. This support for the Red Army in the Latvian War of Independence (1918-1920) lead to the Red Riflemen being seen as traitors by the majority of people in their Latvian homeland. For this reason many of the Red Riflemen remained in the Soviet Union post Latvia gaining its independence, though many of those subsequently didn’t fare too well at the hands of Stalin.

A small number of the Riflemen joined White forces and sided against the Bolsheviks during the Russian Civil War – the White Latvian Riflemen.

This still controversial hulk of a red granite monument, a standout symbol of the former communist system, was built in 1970 to honour the Red Latvian Riflemen’s support for the Bolsheviks during the Russian Civil War.

Rather than pull the monument down, as many wanted to do following the country’s independence from the Soviet Union in 1991, it was decided to retain the monument and re-badge it as honouring all Latvian Riflemen, both Red and White, specifically including those who fought against German advances in World War I.

The memorials previous inscription, “For the Latvian Red Riflemen”, was replaced in 2002 and now reads, “For the Latvian Riflemen / 1915-1920”.

Notwithstanding this, at least one of the carved Riflemen retains a communist red star on his hat pointing to the original focus of the monument. One or both of the other stars – if they were there in the original – may have been removed, it’s hard to tell from the photos I took. If anyone knows about this please enlighten me.

Address: Riflemen Square
Directions: Just off Town Hall Square to the rear of the Museum of Latvian Occupation


This blog entry is one of a group (loop) of entries on the Old City area of Riga. I suggest you continue with my next entry – 1905 – Bloody Sunday Monument – or to start the loop at the beginning go to my first entry – SamaraH Hotel Metropole – Riga.


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